Tag Archives: Issigeac

Issigeac: where walls have ears!

Graham & I first went to Issigeac back in 2008 (it feels as if it was much longer ago than that), when we were house hunting.  We had driven down from the UK, stopping in Jarnac to look at houses in the Charentes Maritimes (too cold for us), thence to Sainte-Foy-La-Grande (you know how that panned out), along to Les Eyzies (too touristy) and down to Eymet in the heart of “Dordogneshire” (too English).  We had made reservations to stay at a B&B while we toured properties in the area and arrived on a Saturday afternoon.

John & Helen recommended that we take ourselves off to Issigeac’s scenic Sunday  market the following morning.  A suggestion that I accepted with alacrity, as I love traditional markets.  Stupidly, we arrived rather late, so the town was fair busting at the seams with people.  We obtained what we wanted for lunch and made haste away from the crowds.

I next went there with Gina & Mo when I returned to complete on the house and begin the renovations (see Sunday Closing for more), and then again when we welcomed our first guests to Les Terraces in September of 2009.  By this time I had the lie of the land and had some idea of where the lanes that would allow me to detour around the worst of the crowds while crossing from one side of the market to another and while I left the family “bimbling” (to amble without real aim, yet in a friendly and harmless manner) I backtracked through a lane and found this:

Issigeac wall
In Issigeac walls really do have ears!

Quite unexpected, I have to say.  And not at all in keeping with the rest of the town.  Issigeac is beautiful.  Picture-postcard perfect.  Except for one thing ……….. it appears that this little town is becoming a ghost town.  Going there on days other than market day one finds that the bars and most of the shops are closed, and there are a worrying number of houses for sale.  It makes me wonder whether it has become a victim of its own success, if you know what I mean.

However, empty roads make for good scenic photo opportunities (not that I think I’m any good at taking photos, you understand).  Here are some samples of some I’ve managed to take.  I hope that you enjoy them.
Issigeac house

Sunday Market
Issigeac Market

Oh, just one more thing – do go and visit it.  You won’t be disappointed.