Posts Tagged ‘Things to Do’

Waxing Historical

Wednesday, May 19th, 2010

It is thanks to my mother that I am a confirmed visitor of historical monuments.  My father was often away at sea and she was ever looking for inexpensive ways to keep my sister & me busy at weekend, so she had a National Trust membership, for which she truly got her money’s worth.  I think that my earliest stately home memory is of Cotehele in Cornwall when I was 6.  I must hasten to say that these visits were never boring, even for a 6-year old, as my mother has an astonishing memory for the “naughty bits” of history.

We would wander from room to room and she’d point out things like commodes and explain how they were used – you can imagine how funny the mental imagery of a grown up sitting on the loo in public was for children; the subjects of enormous portraits hung on the walls would be identified and she would tell us who had had affairs with whom.  She made sure that we saw the well-hidden doors set into walls that allowed servants to make their way quickly and unobtrusively between one room and another, always remarking that the ladies & gentlemen of the house could avail themselves of the same facilities  occasionally for other, less virtuous reasons.  Inevitably this meant that she always had a small group who tagged along in her wake eavesdropping on our personal tour – often larger than the crowd assigned to an official guide.  Who wouldn’t?

I haven’t my mothers narrative gift, or her ability to store such a wide and eclectic mix of juicy historical facts in her head, but I do enjoy taking my time to explore the history of any area in which we find ourselves.  The first time that I did this with Mo was when we traveled to the UK to interview for school places when he was 10.  I took him to Winchester Cathedral when he was interviewed for a school close to the town.  At the time of our trip he was a big history fan and was fascinated by the ancient tombs of kings and the thought that we were walking on floors laid down by craftsmen hundreds of years before.  Needless to say, 7 years on he’s a little less enthralled but he is still pretty willing to follow me around from time-to-time.

Mo tries on some 13th century armour at Chateau de Beynac.

Mo tries on some 13th century armour at Chateau de Beynac.

Given Les Terraces’ enviable location, there is an abundance of places for us to visit.  My goal is to ensure that we go to at least 2 new sights each time we are in France ….. after all, there is only so much maintenance that we can deal with at any one time.

Rainy days need not get you down

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Sadly, not every day at Les Terraces is a sunny one.  I enjoy a rainy day some of the time, especially when there’s maintenance to be done as I don’t feel that I’m missing out on anything that I might be doing that is considerably more fun.  However, with a house full of friends and my son over from school for a brief, extravagant, exeat weekend we had to do more than sit in the house and watch movies.

Aileen and Judy had, during one of their days of exploring, been to Duras.  Graham and I had driven around its edges and past the lovely chateau there while house hunting last year, but we’d not had the opportunity to stop.  Thus it was agreed that we’d all go down to Duras and have a look around and have some lunch (Aileen & Judy had had eaten at a restaurant to which they gave rave reviews).  Duras on a Sunday morning, even in mid-September isn’t exactly a bustling town.  Duras on a rainy Sunday mid-September morning is positively quiet.  Still, this gave us the opportunity to see the architecture of the town unimpeded by people.

Arriving at the Chateau’s gateway I was alarmed to discover that I had morphed into my mother!  I had gone ahead and bought tickets for all of us to go around the castle (I was raised on weekend visits to English National Trust properties and museums).  Graham looked resigned.  Mo had an “oh, Mére” look on his face.  Fortunately, Aileen, Judy and Liz were more enthusiastic.

Chateau de Duras - Photo by Mo

Chateau de Duras - Photo by Mo

The Chateau has been extensively renovated, but there are areas where repairs are still needed, and others still where repairs appear to have been unsuccessful.  It is a fascinating building, with its two most impressive features being its central well, which has chutes through which buckets could be lowered from the floor above,  and the whispering room (the room is such that if you stand face-to-the-wall in one corner and whisper something, a person standing in the diagonally opposite corner can hear you clearly, but no-one else can hear what you’ve said).

I enjoyed the displays showing the process of the renovation project – 40 years ago the Chateau was in such a terrible state of disrepair that, had it not been for the determined people of Duras, it would surely have been condemned.  The most disappointing part of the visit for me, however, was the incredible amount of contemporary graffiti scratched into the stone work.  Why do people do these things?

The central well

The central well

The Chateau is located in such a manner that it must have been strategically important – it has a commanding, unimpeded 270° view.

part of the view from Chateau de Duras

Part of the view from Chateau de Duras

Sadly, the restaurant that Aileen and Judy had been to was closed (it was, after all, France on a Sunday), so we ventured to try a restaurant overlooking the Chateau instead, which served us some excellent meals.  All too soon it was time for me to drive Mo back to Bergerac for the flight back to school while everyone else headed back for the warming fires at Les Terraces.  Thanks are due to Mo for saving the day, as his idiot mother had forgotten to bring her camera along, but his cell phone was available to fill the void.

Exploring.

Thursday, October 15th, 2009

As I said in my last post, one of the great things about having guests in residence with us has been the opportunity to explore something rather more exotic than the aisles of the various “brico”s!  Some trips, such as Issigeac market and St. Émilion, have been de rigeur with each set of guests, while others, such as Chateau Monbazillac, were new to us.

On one day I had to make a run down to Bordeaux to exchange some items at a shop and took my sister-in-law, Coral, with me.  I decided that we’d try something new and, instead of taking my customary route along the D936 to Libourne and getting on the autoroute, we’d drive the D936 all the way to Bordeaux instead.  It’s a very pretty route that takes you through (inevitably) acres and acres of vineyards and through some small towns.  There are several stunning chateaux to be seen along the way, one of which is now on the ever-growing list of places to visit when the opportunity arises.  I had thought that Coral would enjoy the breathtaking  vista of Bordeaux as approached from the east over the Garonne, but her reaction to the sight of the gorgeous Renaissance main boulevard was much more enthusiastic that I had anticipated, so we made a snap decision to park the car and go for a coffee somewhere.

I was stunned at my luck when I randomly pulled into an underground carpark (Bourse, if you must know) and we emerged into the sunny pedestrianised Cours de Chapeau Rouge, less than 100 yards from Place de l’Opera.  Sheer dumb luck, I promise!  I wished that I had known this back in February when, with Mo & Gina, I tried to find Cours de Chapeau Rouge to deliver time-sensitive documents to the bank and got stunningly and frustratingly lost, thereby earning Bordeaux the unfair moniker “bloody Bordeaux”.  However, that’s the joy of trying to learn new places.

The gods continued to smile on us as we were then able to nab an outside table right alongside the Opera.  We ordered a couple of (jaw-droppingly expensive) cappucinos and, while we were waiting for them to be delivered, I zipped off to the Tourist Board office to buy some post cards for Coral to send to friends & family and pick up some brochures on Bordeaux and the activities & attractions on offer in the immediate area for the house.  As we meandered back towards the car there came, through the open windows on the side of the Opera House, the sounds of the company rehearsing, which was a wonderful bonus.

On the way home we stopped for a (late) light  lunch in St. Émilion, and a gentle trundle up towards the Place de la Poste in order that Coral could buy some wine to take home for friends.  Upon leaving St. Émilion I decided to take a bit of a flier and, instead of going straight back to the jolly old 936, explore some of the smaller roads and see what the countryside in one of the world’s wine meccas was like at closer quarters.  It is very pretty.  Tucked away among the vines are some lovely houses but encouters with modern equipment, such as large stainless vats, feel jarring and incongruous, particularly if they are juxtaposed.    I think that Coral enjoyed her day.  I know that I did.