Archive for July, 2009

Surprises

Sunday, July 26th, 2009

As many people have said, and we all know from personal experience, life is full of surprises.  Some good, some bad. It seems to me that when you venture away from dealing in your mother tongue the incidence of surprises increases exponentially.  Inevitably somethings are lost in translation, while other unexpected events occur as a result of cultural differences.  And then there are the honest-to-God surprises that you encounter.  We’ve had more than a few in the last year.  The biggest one for me came as I sat in the Notaire’s office going over everything prior to closing on the house.

We have been exceptionally lucky in that the Notaire that Jean-Pierre  (our immobilier) uses for property transactions has a delightful assistant who speaks fluent English.  She “held my hand” as we lead up to the formalisation of the Compromis*, explaining each step of the process and clarifying sections of the document that were as clear as mud, even after I’d run them through a translation service.  There were many times when, as we spoke on the phone, I imagined her shaking her head in disbelief at my ignorance and failure to have done my homework before we embarked on the venture of buying a home in France.
So, shortly after having arrived in France for the closing I had an appointment to see Catherine in order that she could explain what remained of the legal process.  I bemoaned the delays that had resulted from the mortgage company’s failure to courier their contract to me for 5 days…… I’ll tell you about that process in another post.  However, we had used the time well, getting our bearings, sourcing some of the items that we would need for the house and taking the opportunity to visit some of the area’s prime tourist attractions out-of-season.
As Catherine opened my file she looked across the desk and said to me, “Well, I only received written notice from the Mairie that they have elected not to pre-empt the sale this morning, and we couldn’t have done the closing with out that.”  I was, to use a less than lady-like expression, gob-smacked.
“What do you mean?  I’ve never heard anything about anyone being able to pre-empt the sale,”   I spluttered.
Eyes wide, Catherine explained that as the house is in an historic district and we are not French the Mairie reserved the right to buy the house from the current owner instead of us.  I have no problems at all with the concept – in fact I could readily support such a policy – this saves the French patrimony for the French, instead of allowing it to fall piecemeal into the hands of foreigners.  What was mind-blowing was that no-one had told us that before I bought airline tickets and booked accommodation for the closing.
Can you imagine what might have happened under other circumstances, such as the Mairie actually deciding that they were going to buy the house?  I am, 6 months later, still rendered dumbstruck when I think about it.
*Compromis: agreement to buy.

Going Loco (fou, fol, folle)

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009

I want to tear my hair out, rant, rave, pound the walls.  You name it.  The bloody builder has struck again and I, stupidly, fell for it.  He said that he’d finished.  Finally and only 2.5 times his original quote and 4 months late.  Can someone please tell me a good building/renovation story?  Can it really be that all builders are totally lacking in integrity?????  Sorry, I’m ranting.

It’s just that the builder and I clearly have very different ideas of what the word “finished” actually means.  In my mind it means that he has completed every single item on the list I sent him in my email in March.  Apparently, he thinks that he has finished because he’s done everything that he intended to, which didn’t include cleaning up after himself and his work crew.  They left us with a blocked toilet and plaster stuck to the floorboards.  The work of making good the numerous holes that they cut in the plasterboard throughout the house has apparently been left rough with screw heads sticking through the plaster and the walls unpainted.  The terracotta tiles that were removed in order that a new shower could be installed haven’t been replaced.  And he calls this finished????????? The door to the bathroom  fits so snugly that it took 3 people to release someone trapped on the inside. A new cupboard that was supposed to have been made from tongue-and-groove was made from plasterboard instead and the door to it has been installed without a handle and requires the ingenuity of 2 people and  some considerable strength to open.

The reaction of the professional cleaning crew that went in to do a post-renovation spring clean has been one of horror.  This has been reflected by the satellite TV man and the lad who went in to give me a quote for finishing the painting.  I want to rip this man limb-from-limb, pillory him.  But I can’t.  So I find myself seething with frustration.  It keeps me awake at 3 in the morning.  I can’t conceive of anyone being such a fraud and so lacking in professional integrity.  Sorry.  I’m ranting again.

I know that all of this is character-building stuff and that it will provide yet more fodder for the book I keep thinking I’ll write (one of these days).  However, right now my sense of humour, and bank account, is seriously depleted.  We now don’t stand a snowball’s chance in hell of having any renters into the house this summer so we’ve lost a lot of potential rental income.

Still, I’m a glass-half-full person.  The bright side is that Graham and I have been discussing how best to deal with making sure that the  house is really finished before our first guests arrive to stay on 1st September.  And we’ve decided that one of us will just have to leave the BVI early.  Given the heat and humidity of hurricane season and the ravenous mosquitoes that we are currently enduring I have to confess that this is hardly a hardship.  Although it is an expense, as all of our tickets had already been booked and, as you know, making changes doesn’t come cheap.

So, having discussed everything over the weekend and received the snagging list from Gordon (God bless him) I changed all of my reservations, called my stepfather and wailed “heeeeeelp” (he agreed to take a couple of days off work and fly down to join me) and told Mo that I would be leaving early.

Graham has just arrived at home and told me that he thinks that there’s no point in him staying here for a couple of extra weeks alone, so he’s going to come too.  Now my glass is full!


Ancient History

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

My son’s godmother had but one request when she came to visit:  Please, please, please could we go to the Caves at Lascuax to see the paintings there?  What is a good host to say but “Yes, of course.”?

Having been to Montignac while we were house-hunting (nice town, dump of a property) I knew basically where the Caves were and that the Cro-Magnon Museum at Les Eyzies is only a half-hour’s drive away from Lascaux.  As Montignac is about an hour-and-a-half’s drive from Sainte-Foy-La-Grande it made perfect sense to do both at the same time, so we made a day trip of it.

We went first to Les Eyzies, where the very impressive Cro-Magnon Museum can be found, partly built into the cliffs.   Often when one goes to museums in countries where you don’t speak the native tongue you fear that you won’t get as much from the experience as you might like to.  I was delighted to find that the Cro-Magnon Museum is set out in such a way that visitors really don’t need much French to truly appreciate the wonders exhibited there.  We browsed the galleries and really appreciated the fabulous video reconstructions that they have on tool making and the creation of works of  art and religious artifacts.  You can easily spend a couple of hours here.

Les Eyzies is very quiet out-of-season.  So much so that there were few places open for lunch so we headed on to Montignac to see if we could sate Mo’s incredible appetite for crepes.  Sadly, we were blighted by the same winter dearth of places to eat, but enjoyed a passable meal of duck confit in a restaurant with tables overlooking the river.

Then we set off to the caves at Lascaux for Gina’s treat.  We arrived just before the ticket office re-opened after lunch and enjoyed a quick stroll around the area.  If you get the opportunity to go there then I recommend that you walk up the road that runs through the complex as at the top it opens up onto a fabulous vista of the area.

The gift shop has some very nice items for sale.  I recommend picking up a couple of postcards as there is no opportunity to take photos inside the caves.

The caves at Lascaux that are open to the public are in fact  facsimiles of the originals.  The originals have been sealed off as human interference has caused the paintings to deteriorate.  That notwithstanding, the recreation is excellent.  Our guide was a soft, but clearly, spoken gentleman.  The tour is only given in French and there are no portable headsets available for non-French speakers to follow along in their own tongue but, actually, we really didn’t find that we needed a translation.  The gestures that our guide made to demonstrate some of the techniques used were sufficient for us to understand the crux of what he had to say.  The artistry of our ancestors is unmistakable and the pictures are vibrant in both colour and life.

I am pleased to say that even the teenage boy enjoyed the outing, although not half as much as his godmother, I am sure.    This is most definitely a must-do trip if you find yourself in the area.