Archive for May, 2009

An evening out

Saturday, May 30th, 2009

We had driven down to Fonroque to solicit help and advice from our building surveyor in how best to deal with the builder who had turned to bully-boy tactics (“I need a cheque for €8,000 now, or we down tools”).  Little did we expect that this would lead to an invitation to join them, some friends and guests at a wine tasting the following night.

We met in the driveway of Le Prince Noir and followed our hosts on a quick drive through the lanes to the nearby village of St. Julien d’Eymet just as the vineyard crew were leaving for the day.  Roland Tatard, the vigneron, strolled out to greet Gordon & Jane warmly and welcome us all to Clos le Joncal.

It had been a wet day, which meant that Roland couldn’t commence his introduction to his vineyard in the manner he prefers – a late afternoon/early evening stroll through the vines.  Instead, he led us into his cave which had, until about 1995, done service as a cow shed.  Here, resting against his large oak barrrels, he told us about Clos le Joncal, its wines and a little of himself too.

Fortunately for us Roland has excellent English, a legacy from his days as a fighter pilot with the French air force.  He explained the range of wines that he produces, his philosophy regarding the production of the wines (strictly organic), the grapes and the all-important Terroir.

Incredibly, they only started concentrating on wine in 1995.  Prior to that the farm had been owned and worked by Roland’s in-laws, the Fonmartys, as a mixed use farm, with the wine produced being delivered to the local cooperative.  As Roland prepared to retire from his life of flying Mirage jets and his in-laws sought to retire too, the family decided to embark on a new venture – that of concentrating on the crafting of fine wines.

Roland and Joelle’s passion for their work is most clearly demonstrated by their products and the critical acclaim that they have earned in such a short time.  I was very relieved when Roland suggested that we move from the very cool barrel cellar to the small space he has reserved for wine tasting as I was getting very cold and shivering!

There was a brief halt in the wine cellar where huge double-skinned vats stood, mostly cleaned and empty, awaiting their burden of this year’s grapes while Roland explained this phase in the wine-making process and we (briefly) met his wife, Joelle.

We are not white wine drinkers.  Nor are we imbibers of anything “pink” either.  Our household is a firmly “better be red than dead” one.  That said, Clos le Joncal’s “classic” white was good, and the Alpha very good.  We were surprised by the rosé and it is possible that as summer ramps up in temperature we may yet be converted (on a seasonal basis, of course).  It was when Roland introduced his reds that we got really interested.

The “classic” red is very palatable and makes excellent every-day wine.  We enjoyed the rounder flavours of the Haut Fontette.  Mirage, the top-of-the-range annually produceed wine was velvet-smooth and delectable, but not within our budget this trip.  Understandably, Clos le Joncal’s premium wine, the Mystére, was not included in the tasting as they produce only about 4,000 bottles of it a year, when the vintage is of high enough quality for Roland to deem it worthy of the name.  Sadly, with our funds committed to the renovation of Les Terraces,  the Mystere remains a pipe-dream for now, but we drove home with a mixed case of Classic red and Haut Fontette and there were still a couple of bottles left in the wine rack when we left to return to the BVI.

For more information on Clos le Joncal visit www.closlejoncal.com

Progress, of sorts.

Monday, May 25th, 2009

I find it incredible to think that we are already back in the BVI and found no time at all for writing this blog or updating the web site while we were in Sainte-Foy.  However, it is a very good thing that we went.  We were bullied by a belligerent bloody (British) builder from the time we arrived.  When I wrote the last installment the morning after our arrival in Sainte-Foy I was heartened by what seemed to be progress.  However, it was only an illusion.  In the entire time that we were in France we saw the sum total of no more than 40 hours of work done collectively by the builder and electrician.  Hardly what I would call conscientious work.  Still, it seems that no matter where you go this breed of tradesmen are not exactly renowned for their integrity or reliability.  Horrid generalisation, I know, particularly as I know how hard and diligently my step-father works (he’s a plumber).

Enough grousing!  Graham and I worked hard painting walls, installing bathroom fittings, getting artwork framed and hung and all manner of other jobs.  We have returned tired, but satisfied with the work that we did.  The end result of our visit was that we accomplished getting the studio ready for rent and we wait only for the ground floor re-wiring and installation of the new shower to be done and the house will be completely ready.  That the contractor thinks that it will take then another month to get that far is laughable, but such is life.

We finally had an opportunity to go round Sainte-Foy’s excellent Saturday market.  There is a wonderful array of stalls with items as varied as one would expect – from live animals (rabbits and chickens) through to a roving vanilla seller who is very colourfully dressed (sadly, I wasn’t able to get a picture of him).  The Perigord is famed for its strawberries and the aroma emanating from the stalls specialising in them is hard to describe in anything other than cliches – heady, enticing, evocative, mouth-watering……. yum!  When they are really good you can smell them from about 2 metres away!

There are about half-a-dozen stalls selling oysters (and nothing but oysters) which made Graham supremely happy, particularly at 2 euro a dozen!  A couple of stalls sell the full range of fish and shellfish too.  There are many poultry producers in addition to the inevitable foie gras stalls (oh! do I love foie gras),  and stalls selling fresh rotisserie-cooked chicken.  One had what seemed to be whole small hams too, but we didn’t try them this time.  I was a wimp when buying my free-range chicken and asked for it “sans tete”.  There is a lady who sells nothing but paella from huge pans that must be nearly  metre across.  At the end of the day she has perhaps 4 “to-go” boxes left.  This is just scratching the surface as there are easily 100 stalls in the market, possibly more.

It is fascinating to watch the market break down, which it does promptly and with what might be described as “ruthless” efficiency.  I know from my days of running an annual flea market just how much work is entailed in setting up and dismantling a stall.  However, with the right kit it is clearly much easier, though I’m not sure that I would want to work that hard each week.

All-in-all it was a good 2 weeks and we’re very glad that we went.  Truth be told, we really didn’t want to leave.  Sainte-Foy really has become home for us, which is wonderful.  While the work on the house appears to be near completion there still being a huge amount to be done – we must now set our noses to the grindstone and study our French so that we can communicate with our neighbours in the manner that we would choose to (sans dictionaire).  Still, we will be back there again in 3 months, which is something very much to be looked forward to.

Arrival

Tuesday, May 12th, 2009

It is a very long day’s travel from the BVI to Sainte-Foy-La-Grande, made longer by the need to pick up some supplies for the house en route from Bordeaux airport.  However, we pulled into Place de la Marie at lunch time and, rather than going straight to the house, stopped off at our “local”, Le Globetrotter, for a much-appreciated pression or two.  It is nice to be welcomed “home” with welcoming bissous and handshakes, and that is the warm greeting that we received from Alain & Aline.

It’s a bit of a good thing that we did, as the improvement that the beer lent our sense of humour was needed – the house looked as if someone had exploded a plaster-dust bomb in it, and that was after the builders had clearly tried doing some pre-arrival cleaning up.  The welcome that we received at our own front door was markedly less enthusiastic than the greeting at Le Globetrotter.

Still, we set to cleaning up the 2nd floor so that it was habitable and, by the time the beers had chilled in the fridge, there was some semblance of order!

There is now some sort of routine to our days – get up early, work hard, and quit for supper at an astonishingly late hour!  However, progress is tangible and our being on site seems to have given the builders a sense of urgency that had been missing in our absence.  Today we will sit the builder down and thrash out details and set deadlines (ha ha).

Bonjour!

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

Welcome to the Les Terraces blog.  We hope that you will find it informative and occasionally humourous.  Having closed on Les Terraces in February of this year there has been much to do.  In fact, there was a lot that had to happen first.

While we did what felt like a huuuuge amount of research before we started on the purchase process we weren’t prepared for all of the situations in which we found ourselves.  The learning curve has been very steep, and it certainly isn’t over yet.  If, perhaps, you are considering buying a house in France then we hope that our sharing our experiences with you might ensure that you aren’t as surprised by events as we have occasionally been.

We are just preparing to head back to Les Terraces to check and see how the builders are progressing – last we heard they weren’t – and to see if we can get the house listed with the tourist board.  It is almost certain that the next installment will be written from the top terrace of Les Terraces, perhaps with a good glass of red wine at hand.  See you later, we hope!