Archive for the ‘recipes’ Category

It’s good to be home

Saturday, August 4th, 2012

For the first time since we bought Les Terraces Graham and I arrived here separately.  I was working for a client in Africa and Graham came home to handle check-outs and meet & greet new clients.   For me coming home was wonderful, but a bit of a culture shock – 48 hours earlier I’d been in a  place where access to both running water and electricity was spasmodic at best and to have both simultaneously a marvel.  To move from that to Sainte-Foy and, 9 hours after my arrival, a Saturday morning market was surreal.  My diet went from white bread, omelette and margarine for breakfast and chicken & rice for supper (no veg) to the abundance and variety of market day.  I gorged on fruit and veg.

I’ve now been home for 4 weeks (where has the time gone??).  It has wonderful settling back into the rhythm of life here – including the very early morning realisation that once again, I’ve forgotten to put the rubbish out and running bleary-eyed half-dressed down the stairs to remedy that failure before the dustbin lorry passes the front door.  Not always successfully.  I should perhaps make it clear that we don’t have domestic rubbish collections in the BVI – we carry our rubbish to centrally located skips (dumpsters) that are emptied on alternate days, so one never has to remember to put it out.

Today we had guests to check out and, as we weren’t sure when they were leaving, I didn’t do my early morning run around the market to avoid the crowds.  So it was just as the church bells rang 12 that I set out to shop.  I didn’t have much to buy, just some raspberries (if there were any to be had), and some spuds, plus some merguez, bread, eggs and a little salad.

My favourite veggie stall is in the Place du Marche.  They seem only to stock what really tastes the best that day.  Today there were baskets full of courgette flowers, which I’ve always wanted to try, so I put a modest 3 into a bag and handed them to “Papa”, along with a few others.  “Papa” looked at my sad collection of blooms and returned to the basket.  He added a further 5 to the collection plus a few stalks of parsley.  He weighed the salad and petits legumes and charged me a pittance for them.  The courgette flowers were “un petit cadeaux”, which was accompanied by a blown kiss!

So this afternoon I came home and Googled the preparation of courgette flowers.  I sort of knew what to do with them … make a tempura-style batter and them dip & deep fry them.  Good thing I Googled, otherwise I’d not have removed the pistils!

So, here’s how it went …..

Slightly wilted flowers .... never mind

 

I think that it was probably a good thing that removed these.

Dredged in flour and ready for the batter (no clean fingers for photographing the next stage)

Some cooked, and the last 2 in the pot.

I loved them.  Graham didn’t.  So guess who was the piglet?  Sorry, no prizes for getting it right.

Odds and sods.

Tuesday, December 13th, 2011

With my novel-writing marathon behind me I’m plugging along at the book at a more measured pace and, joy of joys, back to reading.  I am a voracious reader, normally devouring something close to 3 books a week.  One of those readers who even finishes books that they don’t like.  Why?  Just to see if I can work out why I don’t like it.  I believe that in the last decade there is only one book that I have put down as frankly unreadable.  However, the second may be on the floor at the side of the bed at this very moment.

The Alien one passed on a book to  me the other day which I have loved.  It is Elizabeth Romer’s “The Tuscan Year”  (Orion books).  It has been a wonderfully evocative and inspiring read.  One that I have decided won’t be passed on.  Instead, it will travel to Sainte-Foy-La-Grande with us next Easter and live on the bookshelves of the second floor of Les Terraces.  In her chapter on September Mrs. Romer writes of foraging for mushrooms and includes some wonderful recipes, plus a very useful nugget of information about ceps (or porcini as they’re known in Italy) that I’m sharing with you now:

“The dark drier specimens are however preferred to the softer bronze-headed variety whose spores become a soft spongy olive green with age.  This is because the darker variety are harder and less likely to be attacked by grubs.”

When you’re paying up to €20 a kilofor ceps this is very useful, valuable even,  information, trust me.  I had to rush to salvage several that went spongy very quickly in September.  She also gives a marvelous recipe for grilled porcini, which I share with you here….

Grilled Porcini (per person)

1 large, or 2 smaller, porcini
1 large clove of garlic
1/4 handful of fresh parsley, mint or savory
salt & pepper
2 tbsp olive oil.

Clean the mushroom caps and slice the stems off close to the cap (note from me: dry these to use in hearty meaty winter stews, yummy).  Cut the cloves of garlic into slivers and pierce the caps with the slivers of garlic, pushing them into the flesh.  Chop the fresh herb and mix with the salt and pepper (fresh ground black is preferable).  Turn the porcini so that they are gill side up and press the herb mixture into them.  Finally, drizzle the olive oil over both surfaces of each cap and leave to marinate for 10-15 minutes before grilling them – ideally over a wood fire, basting with more oil as they cook.

Serve with excellent bread to mop up the juices.

Roll on September 2012.  I can’t wait to try them like this.  In fact, I may have to try this out with the Portabellas that we get here in the meantime.

On another (totally unrelated) matter, there has been an abandoned television bobbing in our corner of the harbour for the past 3 weeks.  I hadn’t thought that they were so air-tight that one could float for so long.  And before anyone makes any comments, no, it wasn’t wearing the life jacket that is alongside it!

our nice clean harbour!

our nice clean harbour

Also, I discovered someone new working in our office yesterday.  He was hiding under a load of paper.  Fortunately, we don’t have to pay him much:

lizard

Free pest control. He's no good with paperwork, but loves eating mosquitoes

Bread, the update.

Friday, November 11th, 2011

The sourdough starter bubbled and fermented away in the fridge.  After three days it looked like this:

you can see bubbles rising from the mixture (see the right-hand side of the dish)

I have to say that my initial thoughts on the mother were less than confident.  However, it was clearly fermenting and smelled fresh, not funky.  I stirred the liqour back into the solids at the bottom and measured out the ¾ cup I would need for the batch of bread.  Then I added more water and flour to replace the volume I’d just removed.  The container sat, loosely covered, on the counter until the following morning, by which time it was nice and spongy again.  It was returned to the fridge.

The bread took a long time to make but required no kneading, which is different.  It seems to rely upon the yeast in the mother actually breaking down the gluten.  I hasten to add that this is surmise, not fact, and I’ll be delighted for someone to put me right on that.  So basically, you just stretch and fold the dough a few times over a few hours and then shape it into a loaf tin (or in flour-dusted cloth-lined basket for a more authentic look), let it rise until it has doubled in size and bake it.

Easy peasy.  Even I can do that.  See ……….

The finished product

Now, it tasted good, and the texture was good too – not as crumbly as the bread that I normally make.  but it wasn’t sour enough.  So since then I’ve been messing around with letting the starter, or mother, get hungrier and hungrier.  I’ve also experimented with different methods of actually making the bread with varying degrees of success.  The last batch was good and sour, maybe even a tad too sour, but it didn’t rise properly.  We’ll have another go this weekend and see what happens next.

Oh, one nuggest of information for you: if you put the bread into the hot oven and then pour a large glass of water onto the bottom of the oven it creates wonderful steam, which makes for a nice crunchy crust and it also does quite a nice job of cleaning the bottom of the oven too!

Bread

Thursday, October 27th, 2011

The staff of life.  I’ll leave the other phrases and synonyms for you to seek.  Here they’ll only be fillers, and we don’t need any of those.  We’re concentrating on the most basic here: bread.

Here in Tortola we’re not blessed with good bread (you can find another post about my home-baking efforts here:  ).  Forgive me, but American bread is awful, at least the mass-produced rubbish we get here is.  It is sweet and sticks to the roof of your mouth like a sticking plaster. So a couple of years ago I decided to learn how to make bread myself.  Graham (god bless him) gamely consumed many a lead weight before I got the knack of it, and it still doesn’t work all of the time, but most of the time it does.

We’ve been back from France for 3 weeks now (good grief, is it really that long??). I enjoy baguettes (though we mostly eat pain, as it lasts longer), but I miss a good nutty multi-grain loaf, so I was very happy to get kneading again the first weekend after we returned to the BVI.  But I’ve been musing about sourdough (having just bought a huge packet of baker’s yeast), so today I’ve done my research on the web – how did we ever live without it? – and made a sourdough starter.  Hopefully it will be ready to be the mother for a loaf in about 3 days time.  It had better be as the bread that’s in the freezer will have been eaten by then!

I’ve been thinking that when we return to Les Terraces in March I’ll start trying to bake there.  I know it will be different as we won’t have the same heat for proving and so on, but we can get a good mixture of grains to make a good multi-grain bread.  Perhaps I’ll make a sourdough “Mother” (or, shhhh, bring it with me from Tortola) and entrust it to Trudi for safe-keeping.

So, here’s the recipe I’m trying:

2.5 tsp yeast
2 cups warm water
2 cups (multi-grain) flour

I’ve mixed it all up in a glass dish and covered it with a lid to furkle in the warmth.

We’ll see.

The mixture before it started on its transformation into a "mother"

Le marché de cèpes (part one)

Sunday, September 25th, 2011

Not so long ago I cycled over to Bricorama in Port-Sainte-Foy on a small errand.  I elected to return to Les Terraces by coming through Sainte-Foy-La-Grande down rue de la Republique and through Place de la Mairie, rather than coming straight down Denfert Rochereau …. I like to see if there’s anything new going on in town.

It’s a good thing that I did, as I saw that there were vans parked up with trays of ceps for sale.  This threw me, as I thought that the season for ceps and truffles was January-March.  Clearly I was wrong.  Sadly, I didn’t have the time to return and check it all out as we were mid-maintenance project.  However, I hoped that the sales hadn’t been a one day wonder and that there would be ceps available in the market the following Saturday.  There were, but my, what a price!  They were 20€ a kilo.

We’d never tasted ceps and, as Graham & I are both mushroom lovers, I was very keen to correct that omission in our culinary experience, even at such a price.  So, as I walked around the market on that Saturday I was keeping a sharp eye out for this prized fungus.  There was one stall that had some ceps for sale.  They were marked “Auvergne” (the origin of all market produce is clearly marked).  There was a small group of men who were arguing passionately with the stall-holder about the merits of ceps from the Auvergne.  They were adamant that Auvergnais ceps are radically inferior to those of the Gironde and Dordogne.  It isn’t often that you hear men being so vociferous about the provenance of ingredients and, local loyalties accepted, I decided that I’d heed their words and save my pennies.  Either there would be other days upon which ceps would be available during this stay, or the experience would have to wait for another trip home.

It was a good decision.  The following week I stepped out early – well, earlyish – to get croissants from our preferred boulangerie on rue Victor  Hugo and had a brain wave.  I decided to beat the mid-morning crowds and buy what I needed for the weekend then and there.  And discovered that I had only 7€ in my purse!  Still, I was able to order a chicken from the rotisserie lady and pick up some veg from the stall in Place du Marché.  They had some ceps, so I decided that when I returned to pick up the chicken I’d try my hand at ceps too.

Sainte-Foy-La-Grande market produce

My haul from Sainte-Foy-La-Grande's weekly market

 

When I went back to the veggie stall (I so want to buy some of their courgette flowers to play with) I said to the stall holder (in my awful French) “I’d like to buy some ceps, please, but I don’t know how much to buy, or how to prepare them.”  He asked me how many we were (just 2), and suggested half a kilo would be good.  As to how to prepare them, his suggestion was to slice them, sautée them in butter with a little garlic and parsley “et voila!” (recipe at foot of post). So I added a head of garlic and a bunch of parsley to the order.  Word to the wise – try to speak French and ask questions and you’ll often find that an extra something is thrown into your bag.  In this instance it was the garlic & parsley!

cep cap

Cep cap close up

 

ceps a la bordelaise

phase one of the cep cooking

ceps a la bordelaise 2

almost finished now. Wish we had "smelly-vision!"

I did as recommended.  They were sublime, but VERY rich.  I’m hooked.

entrecote with green peppercorn sauce and ceps a la bordelaise

A supper fit for a King? Probably not, but we were happy.

Cèpes à la bordelaise (to feed 2 as a side dish)

250g (8oz) ceps wiped clean with a damp cloth

50g (203oz) unsalted butter

1 large or 2 small cloves of garlic, chopped finely

good handful fresh parsley, picked and rinsed.

A quick squirt of freshly squeezed lemon juice.

fresh milled black pepper and salt to taste.

  1. Slice the mushroom caps moderately thickly (about 25mm, or ¼”), and chop the stems into a fine dice.
  2. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed frying pan over medium heat until it starts to foam
  3. Add all of the mushroom pieces to the pan and stir well to coat with the butter.  Leave to sweat their juices out, stirring occasionally.
  4. Add the garlic and stir again.
  5. Grind in a generous amount of pepper.  Stir again and leave until the juices have re-absorbed.
  6. While the mushrooms are cooking chop the parsley, relatively finely.  Sprinkle the parsley over the mushrooms and squeeze a half lemon over the top (you don’t want all of the juice, about a teaspoon is sufficient to brighten the flavour).  Stir and taste.  Remove from the heat
  7. Add salt to taste.
  8. Add a final small knob of butter to the pan.  Stir one last time et voila!  Serve immediately.

If you have any leftovers they are a great addition to pizza, or rich meaty stews, or tossed with some tagliatelle.  Hmmm …. there are some in the fridge.  Gotta run!

 

 

Fresh eggs.

Saturday, July 30th, 2011

I have a confession to make.  I’m not doing a very good job of supporting the local vendors in Sainte-Foy-La-Grande, with the notable exceptions of market day and croissants from our favourite boulangerie on Rue Victor Hugo.  We’re no different from anyone else in that the recent financial crises haven’t made life any easier or affordable.  So,  instead of doing the bulk of our shopping in town, we tend to use the supermarkets on the outskirts for the bulk of our needs.

Last Saturday I decided that we needed some more eggs – we had Mo and Robin staying with us and Eggs Benedict, which is a Sunday and Christmas morning favourite for us, was on the menu for the following morning’s breakfast.  Clearly fresh eggs from the market were called for.  I  bought half-a-dozen from the chicken stall in Place de la Mairie.  Extra-large, free range eggs.

The following morning I toasted slices of day-old pain (I prefer it to American “English Muffins”, which is the traditional base), sliced the tail end of Saturday’s jambonneau and set a big saute pan of lemon water to boil to poach the eggs while the Hollandaise simmered away in a bain marie at the back of the hob.

When the water was ready I took the first egg and cracked it against the side of the pan.  It wouldn’t give, so the back of a knife was judiciously applied instead.  Carefully, I dropped the egg into the swirl of water and noticed as I did so that it was a double-yolked egg.  Four of the remaining 5 eggs were also double-yolks – an unusually high proportion.  We were all amazed.  Sadly, as our camera disappeared from our luggage between Tortola and St. Martin, I can’t provide photographic evidence of this phenomenon.

The eggs, and their accompaniments, were yummy.  I bought 6 more today.  Not for the expectation of more double yolks, but for their superb flavour.   Madame at the counter wasn’t at all surprised when I told her; in fact, she completed my sentence for me and advised that, while it doesn’t happen every week,  they’re quite accustomed to it.   They will make wonderful soft-boiled eggs with Marmite soldiers for tomorrow’s breakfast, double yolks, or not.

I think I’m falling in love……….. with my slow cooker

Tuesday, February 8th, 2011

Just before Christmas friends of ours dropped into the Yacht Club with a box of things that they had decided they no longer needed: 2 hummingbird feeders, a roll of 1/4″ hemp line, a family-sized slow cooker (crock pot) and a bunch of cigars.  An eclectic mix, to say the least.

Robin was very glad of the cigars and bought Bill & Jo a few drinks to thank them for the rewards of Bill’s having gone “cold turkey”.  John took one of the hummingbird feeders to replace one of his that had been damaged in the previous summer’s storms.  I took the slow cooker.

I used to have a slow cooker, but parted with it in a divorce (I had thought that it might be useful in my ex’s new-bachelor household, along with the microwave).  I didn’t miss the slow cooker until I had one again.  My experiments have left me wondering whether I should equip the kitchens at Les Terraces with them, as they are so useful and perfect for people who want to head out from Sainte-Foy-La-Grande for a days exploring and come home to a meal that is ready to eat.  Winter guests might really appreciate being able to use the superb market produce like this.  Your input is most appreciated.

The first weekend after the family had returned home following the Christmas holidays I bought a small piece of “bottom round” and lots of root vegetables.  At o-dark-30 on a weekday morning I pan-seared the beef and threw it into the slow cooker with the veg, a can of Guinness and some herbs and left it for the day (not without a degree of trepidation).  I was concerned that it might cook dry, but it didn’t.  The meat was juicy and tasty,the veg still had texture and, thanks to the addition of a little beurre manier, the sauce was nicely thickened.  It went brilliantly for a second night with dumplings cooked in the sauce.

My next use was to try and create a frankly faux cassoulet using smoked pork loin, chicken drumsticks, hot & sweet Italian sausage, canellini beans and tinned tomatoes.  It was surprisingly good.  Again, a bit too much juice but that can always be reduced down and its far better to do that than dry things out.

I have an idea for a completely new dish (of my own invention, but with a nodding aquaintance to central American food) using pork tenderloin and sour orange juice.  Watch this space!

Tastes of summer

Sunday, January 30th, 2011

Yes, I know that it is the middle of winter – at least in the northern hemisphere – but isn’t this the time when your taste memory starts longing for summer’s bounty and richness?  I know that mine does.

Spending most of our life living in a fairly barren semi-tropical environment where almost everything that we eat is imported and, by default, never picked/harvested locally at optimum taste except the starchy items, such as tannia, cassava, breadfruit, plantain and sweet potatoes, which don’t perish particularly fast.  This means that when we are at Les Terraces I fall gluttonishly (is there such a word??) on the heaps of wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables that are available every Saturday in Sainte-Foy’s weekly market.

The bounty is almost indescribable: heirloom tomatoes, fresh berries, plums (I love the tiny golden Mirabelles), raspberries (excuse me while I dribble), strawberries that you can smell from 10 paces, long, slender leeks, wonderful green clouds of lettuces: sucré, frisé, maché to name but a few.  Stop!!!! I can feel the excess pounds clinging joyfully to my hips!

This (last) summer I was given a big tub of fromage blanc – a product I had never used before – and some crème fraîche.  I couldn’t bear to throw them away: it goes hard against the grain to do that to good food,  so I tried to work out how best to use them. As non-dessert eaters we’re normally pretty challenged by using ingredients like this but, I figured, there had to be a way.

Inspiration was found in a last-minute invitation to friends for a mid-week working lunch.  Robin had dropped by to do some last-minute repairs before new guests arrived so, naturally, Trudi was invited too.  I had lunch fixings for 2, not 4.  There was some day-old pain (that no self-respecting Frenchman would touch, but we would), some jambon de Paris (Graham’s favourite), some Entremot doux (a Jarlsberg-style cheese), 2 courgettes, the aforementioned fromage blanc and crème fraîche, and the fixings for pastry.

There wasn’t enough for a quiche, and I hadn’t the time as the invitation was rather impromptu, so I made some pastry, rolled it out, par-baked it, covered it with a mix of fromage blanc & crème fraîche (about 50/50 to make a thick sauce) and then topped it with a couple of thinly sliced courgettes that had been tumbled with seasonings & olive oil.  The whole lot was sprinkled with grated Parmesan and then baked until the courgettes were just cooked.

I relished the flavours and was delighted when Robin & Trudi did too (Graham wouldn’t touch it, but that was his loss, not ours).  It was a dish that we recreated a couple  of times last summer, and my head is brimming with modifications to it.

Tarte aux Courgettes

1/2 lb pastry (savoury, not sweet) or 1 ready-made piece, rolled to 0.25 thick
2 long slender courgettes (zucchini) sliced into 2mm thick discs
10z crème fraîche, or sour cream
1oz fromage blanc (cream cheese thinned with a little milk or plain yoghurt might work as a substitute)
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp herbes de Provence
1 tsp olive oil
2 tbsp grated Parmesan (plus more to top if you like)
salt & pepper to taste

Preheat oven to med-high heat (forgive me for not being specific)

  1. Roll out pastry to 0.25 cm thick and lay on a parchment paper-covered baking sheet
  2. Par-bake pastry for about 5 minutes (you’re looking for a light seal on the pastry, no more)
  3. Mix crème fraîche & fromage blanc and spread on the par-baked pastry
  4. Tumble sliced courgette slices with seasonings, Parmesan and olive oil & lay overlapping on the fromage blanc mix in concentric cirlces.
  5. Sprinkle with remaining Parmesan and bake for a further 15 minutes, or until the courgette slices are lightly browned.
  6. Slide onto a chopping board and slice with a pizza wheel.

Bon appétit!