Terraces, use of.

December 29th, 2009

Standing in my kitchen here in the BVI last night it struck me how differently we live in our homes in France & the BVI.  We have a terrace here too.  A roof-top one with a dynamite view of Road Harbour.  There’s always plenty of activity, especially during high season.  The Cruise Ship Dock normally has at least one ship at it.  On busy days there is often a third, and even a fourth, ship anchored off with its tenders running passengers ashore.  There are a number of boats on the dock in front of the house that offer excursions to the cruise ship passengers.  We irreverently term them “the newly-weds, the over-feds and the nearly-deads!”

Weekend mornings and week-day afternoons see school children out in Optimists and Lasers, receiving instruction from the staff of the Royal BVI Yacht Club.  There are often dinghy regattas that take place in the harbour which are fun to watch, particularly if it’s a blustery day.

Pelicans make frequent suicide runs on the schools of fry that swim in the shallows, and little blue night herons perch sharp-eyed in search of their next meal.  The funny thing is that we almost never use this terrace.

Here’s where it gets weird.  As you know at Les Terraces we have not one, but 2 terraces.  They are what gave the house its name.  You’ve seen the view.  It is, for us at least, addictive.  We’re out at all hours of the day and night – watching the world drift by, the planes making their approaches to the small air strip Port Ste-Foy, the fishermen whiling the hours away (escaping their wives??) on both sides of the river, and the teenagers snogging on the benches along the Quai de la Bréche thinking that they do so unseen!

I have to wonder why it is that we use our terraces in France so much more than we do here in the BVI.  Perhaps some of the reason is that it is by stepping onto the terraces in France that we have the best of the views.  Our sitting room here in Tortola has floor-to-ceiling plate glass windows, so the view can be seen without moving.  Another possible factor is that the terrace here is up another flight of stairs, actually above the sitting room and it’s a faff carting plates, glasses, food and wine up there, instead of being able to step straight out onto it.  Weather is certainly an element of influence (no pun intended, of course) – we don’t have any shade cover on the terrace, so it is most often too bright and hot, or it is too windy.  So, with the exception of a couple of days in the year, it is used only for drying the laundry!

Rainy days need not get you down

November 25th, 2009

Sadly, not every day at Les Terraces is a sunny one.  I enjoy a rainy day some of the time, especially when there’s maintenance to be done as I don’t feel that I’m missing out on anything that I might be doing that is considerably more fun.  However, with a house full of friends and my son over from school for a brief, extravagant, exeat weekend we had to do more than sit in the house and watch movies.

Aileen and Judy had, during one of their days of exploring, been to Duras.  Graham and I had driven around its edges and past the lovely chateau there while house hunting last year, but we’d not had the opportunity to stop.  Thus it was agreed that we’d all go down to Duras and have a look around and have some lunch (Aileen & Judy had had eaten at a restaurant to which they gave rave reviews).  Duras on a Sunday morning, even in mid-September isn’t exactly a bustling town.  Duras on a rainy Sunday mid-September morning is positively quiet.  Still, this gave us the opportunity to see the architecture of the town unimpeded by people.

Arriving at the Chateau’s gateway I was alarmed to discover that I had morphed into my mother!  I had gone ahead and bought tickets for all of us to go around the castle (I was raised on weekend visits to English National Trust properties and museums).  Graham looked resigned.  Mo had an “oh, Mére” look on his face.  Fortunately, Aileen, Judy and Liz were more enthusiastic.

Chateau de Duras - Photo by Mo

Chateau de Duras - Photo by Mo

The Chateau has been extensively renovated, but there are areas where repairs are still needed, and others still where repairs appear to have been unsuccessful.  It is a fascinating building, with its two most impressive features being its central well, which has chutes through which buckets could be lowered from the floor above,  and the whispering room (the room is such that if you stand face-to-the-wall in one corner and whisper something, a person standing in the diagonally opposite corner can hear you clearly, but no-one else can hear what you’ve said).

I enjoyed the displays showing the process of the renovation project – 40 years ago the Chateau was in such a terrible state of disrepair that, had it not been for the determined people of Duras, it would surely have been condemned.  The most disappointing part of the visit for me, however, was the incredible amount of contemporary graffiti scratched into the stone work.  Why do people do these things?

The central well

The central well

The Chateau is located in such a manner that it must have been strategically important – it has a commanding, unimpeded 270° view.

part of the view from Chateau de Duras

Part of the view from Chateau de Duras

Sadly, the restaurant that Aileen and Judy had been to was closed (it was, after all, France on a Sunday), so we ventured to try a restaurant overlooking the Chateau instead, which served us some excellent meals.  All too soon it was time for me to drive Mo back to Bergerac for the flight back to school while everyone else headed back for the warming fires at Les Terraces.  Thanks are due to Mo for saving the day, as his idiot mother had forgotten to bring her camera along, but his cell phone was available to fill the void.

A VERY warm welcome

November 9th, 2009

Having worked very hard on renovation remediation for 6 straight days, Graham decided that we were due an evening off from cooking.  Well I was, to be more accurate!  He, knowing that the lovely Aline would have his “distingue” in front of him before he could open his mouth to request it, suggested that we head off to the Globetrotter.  I, however, had other ideas.  On my many trips from the house to M. Bricolage I had driven past a small, interesting-looking restaurant that is as close to the house as the Globetrotter.  I asked if we could please go there instead.  We did.

Les Sarments is situated on the junction of rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau and rue d’Alsace Lorraine.  Its doors and shutters are painted in the light grey that abounds throughout the town, and a grey-and-blue striped retractable awning holds hanging baskets along its length.  As long as the weather is fair, the pavement outside the restaurant is set with chairs and tables so that patrons can enjoy dining outside.

On the night that we ventured out to try the fare at Les Sarments (a Tuesday) there was only one other couple dining.  Once seated the customary “bonsoirs” were exchanged and we ordered a pichet of the house red while we perused the menu.  There was a wide selection of dishes from which to choose, which was a particular problem for me as many of them appealed and I couldn’t decide which I wanted.  This was more readily remedied than one might have thought as, being famished (and greedy, let’s be honest), I opted for the Menu Plaisir.  24 € for 4 courses was just what I needed.  Graham was significantly better behaved and elected to have steak frites (no surprises there).

The meal was excellent.  And so was the company.  The staff were attentive and welcoming. The couple with whom we shared the restaurant that night were friendly, particularly when we started buying drinks for each other and alcohol had lifted some of our hesitation to endeavour to converse only in French!  However, the star of the evening was without doubt the Patron – Catherine.

The two sources of the warm welcome you receive at Les Sarments - Catherine, and the open wood fire on which every meal is prepared.

The two sources of the warm welcome you receive at Les Sarments - Catherine, and the open wood fire on which every meal is prepared.

It was gone midnight when we finally made our way home from our first meal at Les Sarments (which means vine shoots, if you’re interested).  It was the first of many wonderful evenings there that have been shared with friends and family.  We have enjoyed great hospitality, appreciated the warmth of Catherine’s fireplace and her personality, savoured the fruits of her labours (and the fruits of the vine too).  And we’re looking forward to going back for more very soon.

Renovation “experts”

October 21st, 2009

A few posts ago I promised some examples of the stellar (sorry, I know that sarcasm is the lowest form of wit) work done for us by our “soi-disant”, self-styled renovation expert.  Well, the time has come …… (excuse the photos not being oriented properly.  I’ll try to fix another time)

More of the plasterwork from the door

We had a door cut into the wall between the first floor bedroom and the first floor landing. The finish is terrible. At the bottom of the door the plaster fell away, so I had to re-do it. I know that a year of cake decorating courses while I was at catering college would one day be useful!

"Finished" plasterwork

"Finished" plasterwork??

Professional quality work here too

Professional quality work here too - the sink was moved into the corner. The green box hides some mangy old pipework (re-routed). The floor had to be raised to allow for the soil pipe from the shower. Why they didn't run these pipes under the floor too is a mystery to me.

Here a cupboard was removed, and a new one built at 90 degrees to it.  Why they didn't finish the wall and fill the floor is beyond me ...

Here a cupboard was removed, and a new one built at 90 degrees to it. Why they didn't finish the wall and fill the floor is beyond me ...And here we have a beautifully installed light fixture .... professionally centred between the beams

So, a small sample of what a dedicated professional can accomplish over a 6-month period and charging an extortionate amount for his services.  Still, I hear that there’s something called the Chambre de Metiers which may require some investigation …..

Hairdressers, and other facilities

October 17th, 2009

One of the things that has always struck me about France is the number of hairdressing salons that exist.  It has lead me to wonder, somewhat irreverently, if the French are the most highly coiffeured race in Europe.  Even 2-horse villages have 2 hairdressers/barbers.  And a “salon de toilettage” for pet grooming too.

As we tear up and down the D936 towards Bergerac and back we pass through the little town of Gardonne, which we have nicknamed “the village of 1,000 hairdressers”.  I don’t know how many there are in Gardonne, but there are at least 3 and a salon de toilettage within 100 yards of each other.  This set me to thinking about how many hairdressing salons & barber shops we have in Sainte-Foy, and I decided that one day I simply had to take an inventory.  I have now done so.

Before I list them it is, perhaps, worth noting that Sainte-Foy is the biggest little town for several kilometers.  We have Castillonne (de la Bataille, of Hundred Years war fame) to our west and Bergerac to our east, each about a 20 minute drive away, and many people come into the town for their routine needs, so it isn’t unreasonable for it to have a lot of facilities.  At least, more than one would expect for a town with a resident population of just 2,750.

So the other morning, while I was waiting for the huge load of linens that I was washing at the launderette to be ready to go into the tumble drier, I walked along rue de la Republique and up-and-down rue Victor Hugo, then along rue Chanzy (back to the launderette) and counted.  Here are the results of my short survey:

13 Hairdressing salons/barber shops.  13!!

5 Florists

5 Butchers/Charcuteries

1 Fishmonger

11 Banks & Insurance agencies

7 Boulangeries

1 Salon de Toilettage

4 Opticians

4 Pharmacies

1 Corsetière

Clearly, I didn’t count every shop in town.  There are plenty of clothes shops, 2 excellent kitchen shops and all of the other facilities that one would expect a thriving small town to have.  I just counted the things that caught my attention that morning.  Next time I’m going to count all of the restaurants.  That will take me a while.  For now I’m going to take a guess.  Are you ready?  OK.  Here goes ………… 20 restaurants and 5 bars.  I’ll let you know how good a guess this was later.

Exploring.

October 15th, 2009

As I said in my last post, one of the great things about having guests in residence with us has been the opportunity to explore something rather more exotic than the aisles of the various “brico”s!  Some trips, such as Issigeac market and St. Émilion, have been de rigeur with each set of guests, while others, such as Chateau Monbazillac, were new to us.

On one day I had to make a run down to Bordeaux to exchange some items at a shop and took my sister-in-law, Coral, with me.  I decided that we’d try something new and, instead of taking my customary route along the D936 to Libourne and getting on the autoroute, we’d drive the D936 all the way to Bordeaux instead.  It’s a very pretty route that takes you through (inevitably) acres and acres of vineyards and through some small towns.  There are several stunning chateaux to be seen along the way, one of which is now on the ever-growing list of places to visit when the opportunity arises.  I had thought that Coral would enjoy the breathtaking  vista of Bordeaux as approached from the east over the Garonne, but her reaction to the sight of the gorgeous Renaissance main boulevard was much more enthusiastic that I had anticipated, so we made a snap decision to park the car and go for a coffee somewhere.

I was stunned at my luck when I randomly pulled into an underground carpark (Bourse, if you must know) and we emerged into the sunny pedestrianised Cours de Chapeau Rouge, less than 100 yards from Place de l’Opera.  Sheer dumb luck, I promise!  I wished that I had known this back in February when, with Mo & Gina, I tried to find Cours de Chapeau Rouge to deliver time-sensitive documents to the bank and got stunningly and frustratingly lost, thereby earning Bordeaux the unfair moniker “bloody Bordeaux”.  However, that’s the joy of trying to learn new places.

The gods continued to smile on us as we were then able to nab an outside table right alongside the Opera.  We ordered a couple of (jaw-droppingly expensive) cappucinos and, while we were waiting for them to be delivered, I zipped off to the Tourist Board office to buy some post cards for Coral to send to friends & family and pick up some brochures on Bordeaux and the activities & attractions on offer in the immediate area for the house.  As we meandered back towards the car there came, through the open windows on the side of the Opera House, the sounds of the company rehearsing, which was a wonderful bonus.

On the way home we stopped for a (late) light  lunch in St. Émilion, and a gentle trundle up towards the Place de la Poste in order that Coral could buy some wine to take home for friends.  Upon leaving St. Émilion I decided to take a bit of a flier and, instead of going straight back to the jolly old 936, explore some of the smaller roads and see what the countryside in one of the world’s wine meccas was like at closer quarters.  It is very pretty.  Tucked away among the vines are some lovely houses but encouters with modern equipment, such as large stainless vats, feel jarring and incongruous, particularly if they are juxtaposed.    I think that Coral enjoyed her day.  I know that I did.

So much to do, so little time …..

October 11th, 2009

We’ve had a wonderful time here this summer.  There are so many more people with whom we have made connections and we’ve truly enjoyed having a houseful of guests and sharing our new home with them.  However, there is still much that we need to do before we leave, and I don’t think that we’ll accomplish half  of what we’d like to.

I can’t decide what of the last 7 weeks has been the high point for me, as there are so many facets to what comprises happiness.  I’ve loved having a house full of friends and family here.  We’ve juggled schedules, egos and priorities in order ensure that people had enough input and time with us to (hopefully) allow for a good time but leave us with the time that we have needed to keep the project on track.

The house is certainly better for our having been able to use our nearest and dearest as victims for a dummy run.  Some ideas have been adopted immediately, while other suggestions are under consideration.

One of the seriously good aspects of having guests has been the desire to guide friends towards new experiences (for them) and the fun of hearing about those that were discovered without our input and assistance (thereby extending our personal “to do” list with the things that they’ve found on their own and we now need to experience for ourselves).

A personal first for me happened last night when, coming in from the terrace, we found a pigeon inside the house.  Goodness only knows how it got into the house.  Well that’s a bit of a silly statement as clearly we know how it got in – by flying in through an open window while we were sitting on the terrace enjoying pre-dinner drinks.  So, I guess, the correct thing to wonder is “why?”.  It was my father who spotted it sitting quietly behind one of Graham’s model yachts.  I had a bit of fun scrambling around the mezzanine trying to catch it.  Predictably, it fluttered from spot to spot with me trying to be quietly in hot pursuit!  Fortunately, it wasn’t long before I had it cradled in my hands (the result of a stealth approach from the rear).  The bird proved to be surprisingly docile but, as it was banded, I suppose that it was accustomed to being handled.  I walked to a window on the street side of the house and lofted it into the air whereupon it flew the 30 feet acrosss the road to settle on Michel’s garage roof-top.  New memo to self – remember to close the windows to avoid surprise ingress of wildlife!

Life beyond the renovation bubble

September 4th, 2009

As satisfying as getting the house finished is,  I feel like a puppy needing praise for having done something unexpectedly well, which is stupid, as both of us are very happy with the home that we have created and don’t need approval from anyone else.  Not to say that it isn’t appreciated, of course.

Our first house guest has now arrived and the madness of a 6-week road-test of all that we have done (plus that which we have yet to complete) has begun.  The weather is beginning to cool a bit.  Well, a lot if you’re accustomed to life in the tropics, as we are.  I’m hoping that when the tail end of the remnants of Hurricane Bill have cleared the more northerly bits of Europe that we’ll be back to some better-than-decent weather, especially as we’ve so many guests arriving imminently.

The swifts have departed, much to Graham’s disappointment.  They appear to have left for warmer climes.  There are still a few house martins chasing flying insects in the airspace above the house, but nowhere near the numbers that we saw just 3 weeks ago.

Excuse me, I can hear the distinctive sounds of the recycling truck doing its early-morning rounds for glass, and there’s a box full inside the door to be put out.  It’s much easier to let them take it than have to make a run out to the décheterie (recycling centre).  So let me run downstairs and pop the box outside the front door.

Sorry, I interrupted myself.   Where was I?  Oh, that’s right ……. birds and things.  We saw the coolest thing the other morning.  We were standing on the terrace having coffee at about 7:30 one morning, watching the world wake up and a worker from the Commune undertaking some maintenance work on the cast-iron bollards that line the Quai de la Bréche in front of the house (all painted a fetching shade of hi-gloss French grey) when Graham spotted something in the river swimming upstream. “What’s that?” he asked.  I wasn’t wearing my glasses so hadn’t a hope of seeing anything more than a blob in the water so I hazarded a guess at an otter (are there otters in the rivers here?) while I went to fetch the binoculars from the sideboard.

Closer inspection revealed what appeared to be a sanglier (wild boar).  We had to wonder several things.  From whence had it come?  Why was it in the river, and to where was it trying to go?  I called down to the man on the Quai, who was also watching this rare phenomenon, and asked him what he thought it was.  He too thought it was probably a sanglier but also offered that perhaps it might be a small pig.  As the snout of the animal didn’t resemble anything close to that of a pig, but did look remarkably like that of a boar we agreed that it was a sanglier.  Sadly, we couldn’t consult with the animal in question to find out the where, how and why, so we watched him swim slowly against the current before giving up and heading towards the far bank where he stood a chance of getting out and back into the woods where he belonged.  I hope he made it.

The Les Terraces Weight-Loss Program!

August 25th, 2009

Having arrived  back at Les Terraces a fortnight ago I find myself (not altogether unhappily) almost 2 kilos lighter than when we touched down at Bordeaux.  This is the third time that this has happened this year, so it can’t be a coincidence!  Sadly, they’re the same 5lbs that I lost in February and again in May.

It is a very expensive program that involves trans-Atlantic airfares and 2-weeks unpaid holiday.  However, you do get to eat and drink what you like.  No restrictions on beer, red wine or Armagnac.  You can also eat 5 times a day if you feel like it.    The down-side is that it involves working like a dog from 8AM to 6PM with an hour off for lunch!

I know that this diet works for others as Graham lost a similar amount in May and again this trip and my step-father (God bless him) told me when I rang to say a very sincere “thank you” that he lost 6lbs in 5 days!!!

However, I am really pleased with what we managed to achieve  …….. no thanks to the so-called, self-styled “renovation expert” who, instead of improving the house, did a pretty good job at screwing it up.  We’ve taken pictures of some of the work done by his “artisans”, which I’ll upload later (when I’ve worked out how).  There have been some mildly funny incidents, such as the person who went to use the recently extended bathroom and couldn’t get out because the the door stuck in the frame.  It took 2 other people to spring her from the loo!

Yet again we’ve painted acres – ok not acres, but it feels like it – of walls.  This time we’ve also sanded down doors that didn’t fit; I’ve learned new skills, such as basic carpentry and plastering.  I’ve also installed my first light fixture.  I realise that this may not be rocket science, but for someone who spends her time driving a desk it’s quite a departure, trust me.

Saturday morning was devoted to cleaning the incredible amounts of dust, dirt  and ground-in plaster (the dastardly D apparently doesn’t know about drop-cloths) from the ground floor and actually putting things in place, putting loose covers on furniture, setting up the home cinema system and so on.  It really felt good to get to that point.  When we’d got everything in the sitting room in place we decided that it was time to reward ourselves with some time off for good behaviour and set off to people-watch during the weekly market from the vantage point of a table at The Globetrotter.

All that remains to be done now (for this year) is install some additional shelving in a kitchen and paint all of the hallways and apartment doors.  I hope.

Perhaps next week we can relax, enjoy our home and our guests and try not to regain the weight that we’ve lost in the so doing.

Learning the Language

August 10th, 2009

Everyone agrees that one of the keys to living successfully in a foreign country, by which I mean integrating, not existing in an ex-pat bubble, is being able to speak the language.  It’s so obvious that it goes without saying, really.  However, it is much easier to cite that truism than it is to actually do it.  Especially when you’re only a part-time resident.

Last year I was so good.  Disciplined.  I got up at 5:30 every morning and did an hour on the Rosetta Stone before getting on with the daily routine.  I kept this going up to the trip that I made to close on the house in February.  And I’ve done nothing since.  Quite simply, life has got in the way of all of my best intentions.  I have found a way to do something …….. while indulging in a rare web surfing session I stumbled across a blog written by an American living in southern France.  One of the features of the blog is a “word-a-day”, to which you can subscribe.  As the blog’s name implies, it brings you a regular snippet of French.  The beauty of it is that it comes to you in your email.  You don’t have to go and get it.

Finding Kristen’s blog has allowed me to mitigate my feelings of guilt at my lack of self-discipline (which, on reflection, may not be such a good thing).  I manage to get about 90% of the language right, but reading is a world away from being adept at speaking or understanding the spoken word.  However, it’s a start.

Hopefully our spending the next couple of months in Sainte-Foy will go some way towards improving my French (with a lot of work on my part and the patience of our neighbours).  Here’s the link to Kristen’s blog.  I hope that you find her writing as enjoyable as I do and the regular injection of vocabulary useful.  http://french-word-a-day.typepad.com/